Posts Tagged ‘Raf Simons’

A Season of Change

October 29, 2015

 

A look from Lanvin's Spring 2016 runway show

A look from Lanvin’s Spring 2016 runway show

The fashion world has been turned upside down in recent weeks, with high profile departures taking place at some of the most revered French houses. When Americans Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang handed over the reigns at Parisian brands Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga respectively, the moves raised several impeccably groomed eyebrows. This week’s news however, has rocked the world of fashion in a more profound way.
Raf Simons, the Creative Director at Christian Dior announced his resignation earlier this week, in a suprise move that stunned the industry. Mr. Simons had spent only 3 1/2 years at the house, yet was a driving force in reviving the venerable brand which he took over after the very controvesal departure of John Galliano.
Yesterday, Alber Elbaz, the longtime creative chief at Lanvin, announced his departure, apparently pushed out after a disagreement with the current owners.
When people of this calibre from labels this important are forced out, it is time to re-evaluate the role creativity plays in fashion.
In fashion, the creative team is often manipulated by the money people, who restrict the ability of the designer to move the product forward. Playing it safe often trumps great ideas, and the bean counter who looks at the past gets a bigger say in the outcome than the visionary who is looking at the future. Nobody is right until the customer votes by buying the product at full price. A quick glimpse at the sales and discount emails flooding my inbox tells me that isn’t happening. The art of fashion has been replaced by the art of the deal. Meetings take place to outline promotional strategies, not creative ones. Have we finally reached a breaking point?

Christian Dior Couture

Christian Dior Couture

As the fashion world undergoes a change at the highest levels, how will this trickle down to the high street brands? Will we finally begin to celebrate innovation over moderation, or is this the end of great fashion as we once knew it? Does the public care? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Photos: Vogue.com

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Purple Reign

February 16, 2013

In a sea of black and grey, one color seems to be emerging for Fall 2013. Shades ranging  from bright orchid to inky purples are entering the fashion scene with rich fabrics and eclectic color mixes.

Rag & Bone merges orchid boucle with olive, black and a hint of royal blue:

Rag & Bone

Rag & Bone

Catherine Malandrino works a deep orchid blouse with olive green trousers:

Malandrino

Malandrino

Marc by Marc Jacobs merges shades of cool purples for a pencil skirt and top:

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Regal satins with an urban edge at Rag & Bone:

rag & bone

rag & bone

Raf Simons’ hot magenta anorak:

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Siki Im adds a colored wrap to his slouchy menswear look:

Siki Im

Siki Im

Olive and ink with a shot of orchid at 3:1 Phillip Lim:

Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim

Narcisso Rodriguez mixes magenta and rust for a modernist top:

Narcisso Rodriguez

Narcisso Rodriguez

Victoria Beckham adds a pop of purple to tailored menswear fabric for a sexy dress:

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Think Pink

December 19, 2012

Pink was the surprise color of the season, with hues ranging from strong and vibrant, to soft and pastel ruling the runways.

Even the softest of shades had a strength to them. This is not your average girlie pink!

Costume National used  hot pink for modern clothes with a sexy vibe:

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Burberry mixed their rich pink with red, for a new silhouette with exaggerated round shoulders and a nipped waist:

BUR_0131.450x675

Elber Albaz took a minimalist approach to magenta with a simply cut sheath dress for Lanvin:

LAN_0672.450x675

Raf Simons popped his pale pink with a bright yellow lining and edgy black shorts for Christian Dior:

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Balmain used a vibrant pink for laced up shoes in rich satin:

RTW_Blumarine_Spring_Summer_2013_Milan_Fashion_Week_September_2012

Fashion Flash: Milan Fashion Week

April 2, 2012

WIth all of this talk about food, and leftovers, I thought it was time to talk about fashion again. Here is an article previously posted on Fashionista Cafe, a website that I am a contributor for.

Milan Fashion Week offered a beautiful take on old world opulence with a decidedly modern flair.  Textiles and embellishments played a big role in fashion this season, and time-honored techniques such as gold embroidery and beading enhanced the rich, luxe fabrics and couture-like cuts that roamed the catwalks.

Dolce and Gabbana are some of the most prolific designers in the world, taking an idea and turning out multiple iterations that never fail to impress. This season, they took their inspiration from Sicilian baroque traditions. Lavishly embroidered frocks and capes, reminiscent of religious vestments were worked against lace and figurative needlepoint florals replete with images of cherubs, in some of the duo’s signature silhouettes.

Aquilano Rimondi also took their inspiration from the church, religious jewelry and the richness of Renaissance paintings. Their modern twist on opulence ranged from masculine to feminine silhouettes, in an array of deeply colored jacquards and luxurious velvets.

Miuccia Prada took a more modern approach to her collection, using chunky jewels to embellish the strict, elongated shapes she showed.  The mostly black ensembles were shown in strong contrast to the bold geometric prints reminiscent of David Hicks that were also part of the offering.

Consuelo Castiglioni stayed true to Marni’s roots, showing a clean, modern assortment that spanned the range from spare to opulent via her play on textiles and ornamentation.

Whether it was her Bauhaus inspired separates in a unique color palette of camel, red, winter white and duck egg blue or her rich jacquards and jeweled pieces in black and gold, an architectural influence prevailed.

Antonio Marras is a master at his craft, and this season was no exception. Marras mixed velvet, tapestry, menswear fabrics and fur into 40’s inspired silhouettes for a feminine and artistic take on the season. His keen attention to workmanship and details made this collection one to watch.

Raf Simons bid adieu to Jil Sander with a ladylike collection with a couture-like edge.

Simons vision of a woman in shades of winter white, toast, soft blue and pale pink were shown in oversized coats, which the models clutched modestly, over slip-like dresses in charmuese. Unexpected pops of rich red, and a shot of metallic silver added an air of modernity.

It was an outstanding finale to a brilliant career at Jil Sander, soliciting a standing ovation from the audience.

The Milanese designers provided covetable clothing that stirs us emotionally and inspires us creatively. All in all, it was the stand out city among the fashion capitals this season.

Photos: Courtesy of Fashionista Cafe/ Pixel Formula


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