Posts Tagged ‘Antonio Marras’

Plaid Redux

March 27, 2013

Plaid is having a resurgence for Fall 2013, turning up as the pattern of choice for many designers. From Celine’s sublime signature coats,to Hedi Slimane’s controversial ode to grunge for Saint Laurent, today’s plaids are used in a way that is anything but classic.

Mulberry’s over-scaled plaid tunic is covered in clear sequins for a glazed effect.

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Mulberry

Celine works bold plaid into new shapes for Pheobe Philo’s covetable coats and mixed, not matched separates and accessories.

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Tracy Reese cuts a tartan circle skirt, and pairs it with a sequined sweatshirt for a young, urban look.

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese

Designers, such as Antonio Marras and Aquinlano Rimondi took a more retro, ladylike approach with their mixed media plaid dresses.

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras

Aquinlano Rimondi

Aquinlano Rimondi

Stella McCartney keeps it light, for her voluminous coat.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney

Marc Jacobs kept it short at Louis Vuitton, allowing the pattern to fade into an embellished border on his plaid coat.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Photo Finish

February 27, 2013

Photographic prints in black and white are taking the Fall runways by a storm this season. From street scenes to faces, these photo-realistic scenes provide the perfect landscape for sculpted dresses, shapely skirts and fluid blouses.

 

Marni’s forest print, with a criss-crossed fur neck piece :

Marni

Marni

Ports 1961 mixed tweed with photo-real flowers for a turtleneck dress:

Ports 1961

Ports 1961

Mary Kataranzou’s street scenes lent themselves beautifully to her modernist dresses:

Mary Kataranzou

Mary Kataranzou

Silhouettes of trees on a sheer white blouse at Maria Grachvogel:

Maria Grachvogel

Maria Grachvogel

A collage of head shots adorn a pencil skirt at Frankie Morello:

Frankie Morello

Frankie Morello

Antonio Marras masterfully blends flower gardens with modern art, for a tromp l’oeil effect:

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras

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Collared

May 3, 2012

There is a sense of modesty that has been brewing on the runway for the last few seasons. Gone are the skin-tight dresses of the past, cut just below the panty line with plunging necklines. A certain presence of decorum is more prevalent today, than overt sexiness.

For Fall 2012-2013, many designers used prim collars to fill in the necklines of their tops and dresses. The most interesting were those that were not actually attached to the garments. These separate collars were made from a plethora of materials and took the place of a necklace.

At Cacharel, metal, or delicate crochet were used to fashion the collars, which sat high on the neck.

Donna Karan’s Victorian dandies wore crisp white wing collars, often accompanied by separate French cuffs.

Antonio Marras took his luxe patchwork concept to the next level, with double collars featuring multiple patterns.

Rodarte collars were made of lace.

Fashion Flash: Milan Fashion Week

April 2, 2012

WIth all of this talk about food, and leftovers, I thought it was time to talk about fashion again. Here is an article previously posted on Fashionista Cafe, a website that I am a contributor for.

Milan Fashion Week offered a beautiful take on old world opulence with a decidedly modern flair.  Textiles and embellishments played a big role in fashion this season, and time-honored techniques such as gold embroidery and beading enhanced the rich, luxe fabrics and couture-like cuts that roamed the catwalks.

Dolce and Gabbana are some of the most prolific designers in the world, taking an idea and turning out multiple iterations that never fail to impress. This season, they took their inspiration from Sicilian baroque traditions. Lavishly embroidered frocks and capes, reminiscent of religious vestments were worked against lace and figurative needlepoint florals replete with images of cherubs, in some of the duo’s signature silhouettes.

Aquilano Rimondi also took their inspiration from the church, religious jewelry and the richness of Renaissance paintings. Their modern twist on opulence ranged from masculine to feminine silhouettes, in an array of deeply colored jacquards and luxurious velvets.

Miuccia Prada took a more modern approach to her collection, using chunky jewels to embellish the strict, elongated shapes she showed.  The mostly black ensembles were shown in strong contrast to the bold geometric prints reminiscent of David Hicks that were also part of the offering.

Consuelo Castiglioni stayed true to Marni’s roots, showing a clean, modern assortment that spanned the range from spare to opulent via her play on textiles and ornamentation.

Whether it was her Bauhaus inspired separates in a unique color palette of camel, red, winter white and duck egg blue or her rich jacquards and jeweled pieces in black and gold, an architectural influence prevailed.

Antonio Marras is a master at his craft, and this season was no exception. Marras mixed velvet, tapestry, menswear fabrics and fur into 40’s inspired silhouettes for a feminine and artistic take on the season. His keen attention to workmanship and details made this collection one to watch.

Raf Simons bid adieu to Jil Sander with a ladylike collection with a couture-like edge.

Simons vision of a woman in shades of winter white, toast, soft blue and pale pink were shown in oversized coats, which the models clutched modestly, over slip-like dresses in charmuese. Unexpected pops of rich red, and a shot of metallic silver added an air of modernity.

It was an outstanding finale to a brilliant career at Jil Sander, soliciting a standing ovation from the audience.

The Milanese designers provided covetable clothing that stirs us emotionally and inspires us creatively. All in all, it was the stand out city among the fashion capitals this season.

Photos: Courtesy of Fashionista Cafe/ Pixel Formula


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